Blueberry Sorbet Cream

I love sorbet but sometimes it just doesn’t satisfy. I want something richer, but not as rich as ice cream. This sorbet cream satisfied on all counts. It had a dense, creamy texture that reminded me of ice cream but finished with the refreshing, fruity flavor of a sorbet. There are already so many terms for frozen desserts—semifreddo, gelato, ice cream, sorbet, sherbet, parfait—that it seems superfluous to add another to the mix.

But the term “sorbet cream” is apropos because this is essentially a sorbet base lightened with whipped cream. It’s not quite a fool—which is an unfrozen concoction of whipped cream flavored with fruit puree—nor is it a sherbet which can also contain egg white or gelatin. But, it will satisfy nonetheless. Fruit that is high in pectin—like rhubarb, blueberries, raspberries, grapes, and mango—can be easily adapted to this technique. Delicate, high water fruit like strawberries and citrus may not translate so well. The whipped cream for this recipe must be “whipped” using an immersion blender otherwise you will incorporate too much air and the mix will tend to form lumps during churning. (This is a technique that I also use when whipping cream for plated desserts because you get a dense creamy texture that is easy to quenelle without using a stabilizer and re-whipping.)

 

Blueberry Sorbet Cream

500 grams blueberries

50 grams granulated sugar

110 grams honey (acacia, wildflower, or orange blossom)

30 grams lemon juice

200 grams heavy cream

 

Combine blueberries and sugar in non-reactive saucepan and cook until the berries are almost liquefied. Puree and strain (if desired). Cool and add honey and lemon juice. Chill. “Whip” heavy cream with immersion blender. Temper the cream into the sorbet base and immediately process in ice cream machine. The high water content will cause this sorbet cream to get icy quickly and it should be eaten within two days. You can convert any sorbet base into a sorbet cream using this ratio: 3 part sorbet base: 1 part cream (unwhipped)

 

 Graham Crackers

240 grams flour, all-purpose

118 grams flour, whole-wheat pastry

35 grams wheat germ

118 grams brown sugar

5 grams baking soda

3 grams salt

2 grams cinnamon, ground

113 grams unsalted butter, softened

105 grams honey

70 grams milk

70 grams milk

 

Blend dry ingredients. Cut the butter into small pieces and blend into the dry ingredients until coarse crumbs form. Blend honey and milk. With the mixer running, drizzle the milk mixture over the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Refrigerate dough until firm. Roll dough to 1/3 inch thickness, and cut into desired shapes. Bake at 325F for 10 minutes. (It’s hard to over-bake this cookie because it’s supposed to be brown and crisp so take my timing with a grain of salt.)