Einkorn is an ancient grain that is often regarded as the predecessor of modern wheat. There is some debate about this origin story as the grain is also believed to have evolved from wild emmer wheat. Either way, einkorn is undergoing a renaissance in part because of its nutritional profile, but also because those with gluten intolerances digest it more easily than modern wheat. These are all pluses but, as a pastry chef, I bake with einkorn because the grain contributes a unique flavor reminiscent of honey, vanilla, and toasted almonds. So why don’t more pastry chefs and bakers use einkorn flour?
Until the last decade, einkorn was on the verge of extinction. A few hundred acres were grown worldwide because, when compared to modern wheat, einkorn’s yields are relatively low and the grain is challenging to mill. The husk must be removed before milling which reduces the yield to nearly one-fifth of the yield of modern wheat. This also makes einkorn flour significantly more expensive than conventional wheat flour.
Furthermore, the modern wheat that is grown and milled into whole wheat, all-purpose, and various types of flours commonly used today isn’t the same wheat of yesterday. Hundreds of years of crossbreeding and hybridization has altered the makeup of the plant to increase its yield and resistance to disease and pests. Hybridization has also altered the nutrient content of conventional wheat. Einkorn, which has never been hybridized or crossed with other species, contains as much as 30 percent more protein than conventional wheat. Thus, it’s important to understand the technical aspects of working with einkorn.
The increased protein content makes baking with einkorn flour more challenging than baking with conventional wheat flours, but not in the way that you’d expect. The ratio of gluten-forming proteins in einkorn differs considerably from conventional wheat and substituting einkorn 1:1 for whole wheat flour usually yields poor results, particularly in bread baking. Other notable differences include the way einkorn absorbs liquids and fats and the flour’s tendency to clump. Converting recipes to use einkorn flour is not a straightforward process. Although it takes some trial-and-error to find the right balance, there are general guidelines that should be followed when working with einkorn:
EINKORN HAS A LOW ABSORPTION RATE. In breadmaking, liquids should be reduced by up to 30 percent. Einkorn is also slow to absorb fats so if a recipe doesn’t include liquid, then it’s helpful to reduce the fat by up to 20%.
SIFT FLOUR. Einkorn is very fine and tends to clump easily. Sifting it with other dry ingredients, such as salt and leaveners, makes it easier to blend the flour into doughs and batters without overmixing.
FOLD FLOURS IN GENTLY. Einkorn’s gluten structure is more delicate than conventional wheat. The flour is easily overmixed into a sticky, gummy mess so the last addition of flour should be folded in by hand.
REST BATTERS BEFORE BAKING. Some recipes overcome einkorn’s low absorption rate by adding extra flour. However, this can result in dense cakes and pastries. I have found that lighter cakes and pastries can be achieved by resting the doughs and batters for a few hours before baking. This resting time allows the flour to absorb the liquids and fats.
As with other grains, einkorn is ground into whole grain and all-purpose flours. Because all-purpose einkorn flour has a portion of the bran and germ removed, it closely resembles conventional all-purpose flour and is a good starting point when learning to bake with einkorn. However, do not be deterred by baking with whole-grain einkorn flour which has an undeniably rich flavor. Experiment until you find what works best for your recipe.
WHERE TO BUY: Due to its increasing popularity, einkorn is more widely available than when I first started baking with the flour a few years ago. If you live in the Northeast, einkorn is sold in the natural foods and baking aisle of major supermarkets under the following brands: Jovial, Bob’s Red Mill and Hodgson’s mill. Higher quality einkorn flour is sold at natural food stores. The best quality einkorn flours are stone-ground or sold as a whole-grain flour. However, stone mills are a relative rarity in the United States so it may be easier to order this type of einkorn flour online or buy whole berries and mill the flour in a tabletop grain mill. The following millers sell einkorn berries and stone-ground flour and offer reasonable shipping rates:
Castle Valley Mill
Carolina Ground
Barton Springs Mills
Maine Grains
EINKORN BUTTERMILK CAKE
(yields three 1-kg loaves)
This cake keeps extraordinarily well and will stay fresh for up to a week in a cool, dry place. It is flavorful enough to serve plain but also pairs beautifully with fruit compote and a spoonful of cream. I especially enjoy a slice with my cup of afternoon tea (or a strong cup of coffee). I highly recommend resting the batter in the fridge for up to 12 hours before baking. This prevents the cake from becoming dense and gummy. If you are in a rush, rest the batter for only 15 minutes before baking but use a cake tester to ensure that the cake is fully baked before removing it from the oven. This recipe was tested with stone ground, whole-grain einkorn flour but all-purpose einkorn flour can be used for a lighter texture.
450 GRAMS butter, softened
670 GRAMS granulated sugar
5 GRAMS salt
475 GRAMS eggs
800 GRAMS einkorn flour (stone ground and whole grain is best)
160 GRAMS soft wheat pastry flour
20 GRAMS baking powder
8 GRAMS baking soda
680 GRAMS buttermilk
Using the paddle attachment, cream butter, sugar, and salt on medium speed until lightened in color and texture. Add eggs in three additions (scraping down in between). Combine and sift dry ingredients. On low speed, add 1/3 of dry ingredients. Mix just until combined. Add half of the buttermilk. Mix just until combined. Repeat the wet-dry ingredients and fold in the last of the flour by hand. Scale the batter into loaf pan (lined and sprayed) at 1kg per pan. Bake at 325F in a convection oven, low fan for 40-50 minutes. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes before unmolding onto a cooling rack. Cool completely. Store at room temperature for up to one week.
STORAGE: Keep frozen. Thaw and store at room temperature for service. Cake has 2-day shelf life.
POINTERS FOR SUCCESS:
• Do not overmix the batter. Once the dry ingredients are added, the batter should be mixed just until the flour is absorbed.
• Rest the batter for at least 15 minutes and up to 12 hours before baking. Any longer and the leaveners will lose some of their strength.
• Use a cake tester to confirm that the cake is baked through. It can feel springy to the touch but still be raw in the center.
Buttery. Salted. Caramel. 
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