Milk Sherbet Sorbet

I’ve always been a stickler for calling foods by their correct names. Gelato is gelato, not ice cream. A macaron and a macaroon are not the same cookie. So, I’ll be upfront and admit this recipe should really be called a sherbet since it contains dairy. By strict definition, sorbets are frozen concoctions of fruit, syrup, and on occasion, an egg white or two, while sherbets are essentially sorbets with a small amount of milkfat. In other parts of the world, sherbet also refers to an effervescent fruit beverage. Either way, sorbet and sherbet refer to fruit-based frozen concoctions of which this frozen milk is neither so I am sticking with a name that best describes the texture and one that most people will recognize: milk “sorbet”.

While frozen desserts are always popular during the hazy summer months, the heat and humidity don’t seem to dampen people’s appetites for rich chocolate desserts. This year, I wanted to move beyond ice cream and use a frozen concoction that was just as creamy and refreshing as ice cream but with a clean flavor that would take kindly to any dessert—from an indulgent chocolate cake to a summer berry cobbler. Buttermilk and kefir gelatos fit the bill on most counts but the “tang” wasn’t always user-friendly. On my current dessert menu, a chocolate cake and a glass of cold milk inspired me to create a 5 layer chocolate mousse cake and I thought, “Wouldn’t it be cool if I could freeze the glass of milk?” So I did, and served it as a milk “sorbet”.

Milk sorbet has become one of my favorite frozen desserts to serve during the summer months and not just because it is ridiculously easy to make. It is incredibly versatile and makes a great showcase for delicate fruits and herbs that would otherwise drown in a sea of sugar, cream, and eggs. I’m thinking of chamomile milk sorbet with fresh berries, almond milk sorbet with vanilla pound cake and cherry compote, a lavender milk sorbet with roasted apricots and wildflower honeycomb, or a strawberry Ovaltine milk sorbet sundae.

Sometimes, the best things in life are also the simplest. Enjoy!

 

Milk Sorbet: The Recipe

Yield: 8 pints

3000 grams cold milk, pasteurized and unhomogenized
625 grams granulated sugar
500 grams dry glucose (powder)
5 grams salt
1 vanilla bean, seeds only

Blend granulated sugar, glucose powder, salt and seeds of 1 vanilla bean. Whisk dry ingredients into 1200 grams of cold milk. Bring the sweetened milk to a boil, whisking occasionally over medium heat. Boil for 1 minute. Strain the mixture into the cold milk and chill for four hours before processing in an ice cream machine.

VARIATIONS: Prepare a cold infusion of milk and fresh herbs (like lemon thyme, chamomile or lemon verbena) up to 24 hours before making the sorbet base.

NOTES: You can substitute up to 500 grams of the milk with heavy cream for a richer mouthfeel. The dry glucose can be replaced with 400 grams of glucose syrup but the sorbet will melt easily and turn icy if stored in the freezer longer than 2 days.