Candied Olives

Candied Olives
Candied {Gaeta} Olives

I don’t think of olives as a savory ingredient in pastry. To me, it’s just another form of salt, albeit one with a vast array of fruity, herbal and nutty undertones. Candying the olives removes some of the saltiness imparted during the brining process while drying intensifies the olives’ natural affinity for citrus, nuts, and other ingredients commonly used in desserts.

The olives are first rinsed in cold water then poached in simple syrup for 30 minutes or until softened. They are then dried in a low oven until slightly shriveled, but slightly meaty, and ground in a RobotCoupe just until the olives are shiny and aromatic. This technique works well with cured dark olives and tones down the bitter, salty aspects, which allows the olives take on more of a fruity, floral flavor note that tempers sweetness and pairs especially well with chocolate and citrus fruits.  (I also candied green, uncured olives and after drying, their vibrant green color turned to drab olive hue and they barely tasted like anything. Stick with the cured olive varietals.)

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