A Study In Dessert: White Truffle Custard

Inspiration: It’s white truffle season. Why not?

Elements: butternut squash cake, green apple pearls, brown butter crumbs, cider agrodolce, fennel.

Technique: The custard is a variation of Catalan cream. In addition to white truffles, the custard is infused with lemon zest, cinnamon, and vanilla. It is thickened with corn flour on the stovetop, set with gelatin, and bruleed to order. In keeping with the earthy, autumnal theme of this dessert composition, I used a butternut squash cake for the base because its flavor is milder than pumpkin.  For the pearls, green apple puree is thickened with locust bean gum and agar and piped into cold oil. For the crumbs, milk solids are browned in butter over low heat for almost an hour, strained and dried. The flavor is subtle and nutty and is a helpful technique to use  when you need a gluten and nut-free crunchy element. The composition is rounded out by fennel in two forms: frond and flower.

Comments: You couldn’t have persuaded me that this dessert would actually sell because it has been my most expensive creation to date. Most people are opting for the $25 version which includes a shaving of fresh truffles.