Sweet Corn-Lemon Thyme Gelato

For some strange reason, corn is one of those foods that people prefer to be sweet, really sweet, but balk at the idea of using it in dessert. At least, this is true in the United States. Corn pudding is a traditional Brazilian dessert used to celebrate June Festivals, while corn ice cream and sweet corn cakes are year-round staples in Mexico. Canned corn served over crushed ice is a popular Asian dessert, as is the more elaborately prepared chè bắp, a Vietnamese corn pudding in which corn is simmered with coconut milk, tapioca, and pandan leaves. I can’t explain the American aversion to corn desserts since so much of our food is derived from it. But I am determined to wring the last ounce of pleasure out of this summer favorite as I will not be eating fresh corn for another eight months. So never mind the chilly temps, {late harvest} corn is still in season and I’m finally making the gelato that I’ve been waxing poetically about all summer. Be forewarned that this gelato is addictive and I’m not snooty enough to admit that it does taste like Sugar Corn Pops. Maybe that’s why I can’t resist  a couple spoonfuls in the morning.

 

Sweet Corn-Lemon Thyme Gelato

Makes 1 quart

1 lb whole milk

8 oz. heavy cream

3 ears fresh corn

¼ oz. lemon thyme

6 oz. granulated sugar

5 oz. egg yolks

1. Warm milk, cream and 4 ounces of sugar. Remove kernels from corn and set aside. Break corn cobs in half. Add cobs and lemon thyme to the warm milk mixture. Cover and infuse for 15 minutes.
2. Strain the milk and discard the spent cobs and herbs. Heat the milk just until simmering, and pour over the corn kernels. Puree the mixture and set aside to infuse for 45 minutes.
3. Return the corn puree to the heat and warm just until simmering. Combine the egg yolks and remaining 4 ounces of sugar. Temper the yolks into the corn puree and cook over medium low heat just until thickened. (This will only take a few minutes.)
4. Strain the thickened custard through a chinois, pushing down on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. (If you do not have a chinois, you can strain once through a regular sieve and again through a sieve that’s been lined with cheesecloth.)
5. Chill the custard over an ice bath. When cool, chill the custard overnight and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions.
6. Ripen in the freezer for 2 hours (or up to 2 weeks).

Variations

Corn Ice Cream: Omit lemon thyme and use 12 ounces of milk, 12 ounces of cream, and 6 oz. of egg yolks.

Pointers for success

• You shouldn’t have more than a 1/2 cup of corn solids left after straining. If you do, keep squeezing.
• If you want to include corn kernels in your gelato, you can fold in candied corn kernels once the gelato is churned. Do not use corn kernels that have not been candied because their water content will cause the kernels to become icy once frozen.
• Gelatos have a lower fat content than ice cream and are best served when they have been softened in the refrigerator for 15 minutes before serving.