Apple And Pear Bobka Muffin

This muffin is a bit of a conundrum. For starters, the muffin “batter” is really a dough that is stiff enough to roll. The dough is also leavened with both yeast and baking powder, although the yeast contributes more flavor than rise. When I first used this recipe from Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from La Brea Bakery, I wondered what kind of dough-ball-of-a-muffin I was going to end up with. The skeptic in me was soon silenced when the muffins emerged from the oven: tender, flavorful, and perfectly moist. I wished that I had doubled the recipe.

The Dough

10 grams active dry yeast

4 ounces whole milk, warm

Sprinkle the dry yeast over the warm milk. Let the mixture stand for one minute to moisten the yeast. Whisk the mixture to dissolve the yeast and set aside until the mixture begins to foam. (If the mix does not foam at this point, then your yeast has kicked the bucket. Mourn briefly, then start again with new yeast.)

14 ounces all-purpose flour

2.5 ounces granulated sugar

7 grams salt

zest of one lemon

2 grams freshly grated nutmeg

2 grams baking powder

Blend the dry ingredients.

8 ounces unsalted butter, chilled and cubed

Add the butter to the dry ingredients, and using the paddle attachment, blend on medium speed until coarse crumbs form.

3.8 ounces (2 large) eggs

Whisk the eggs, and while the mixer is running, drizzle the eggs and yeasty milk over the dry ingredients, and continue mixing just until a dough forms. If you’re impatient and ballsy like me, you’ll take that dough straight out of the mixer and show it who’s the boss as you roll it between two sheets of lightly greased parchment paper. (Otherwise, you can chill the dough for 20 minutes before proceeding.) Roll the dough until it forms a rectangle that is one-third inch thick and chill until firm. While the dough is chilling, prepare the streusel topping and fruit garnish.

The Streusel Topping

5.45 ounces all-purpose flour

1.75 ounces granulated sugar

.2 ounces salt

3 grams baking powder

Whisk dry ingredients to combine.

3 ounces unsalted butter, cubed and softened
Add the softened butter and, using the paddle attachment, blend on low speed until small and even crumbs form.

1 egg

Whisk the egg, and with the mixer running on low speed, drizzle the egg over the dry ingredients and mix just until the dry ingredients are moistened. The topping will look unevenly mixed.

The Filling and Fruit

The dough can be filled with any combination of cream (frangipane, pastry cream, or crème fraiche, sour cream), Greek yogurt, cake crumbs, or dried fruit.

For the fruit topping:

1 ½ ounces unsalted butter

Melt over medium-high heat until lightly browned.

2 apples, cored and diced

1 ripe pear, cored and diced

Add the fruit to the browned butter.

1.75 ounces granulated sugar

ground cinnamon, to taste

Sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over fruit, lower heat to medium, and cook until barely tender. Do not cook the beejesus out of the fruit as it will further cook in the oven. Cool to room temperature.

For the Muffin:

Spread the cream within a ½ inch from the edge of the rolled dough. If you are using any cake crumbs or dried fruit, spread them over the cream. Otherwise, roll the dough to form a Swiss roll. (The dough is moist enough to stick to itself, otherwise you can moisten the edge with water to seal it.) Slice into 1-inch thick pieces and place (filling side up) in a greased muffin tin. Top with fruit and streusel, cover, and proof until doubled in size. Bake at 350F for 20 to 25 minutes and until the top is golden brown.

Once cooled, savor your muffin with coffee or tea (or a hot toddy, if you are so inclined)

**Note: You may need to slice the log into smaller pieces of your muffin tin isn’t very high.

**Note: The dough can be rolled, filled, and frozen. Let the dough thaw in the refrigerator for up to 2 days and slice and bake as needed.